Removing a shower drain might sound complicated, but with the right tools and method, it’s a straightforward process. You may need to do it to replace an old drain, clear a deep clog, or upgrade to a new drain cover or trap. Whether your drain is screw-in, snap-in, or caulked, this guide will show you how to safely remove it without damaging your shower floor or plumbing.
This process applies to both tile and fiberglass shower bases, including the modern floor drain systems found in Global MoonShower shower designs.
You might need to remove the shower drain if:
The drain is clogged deep inside and normal cleaning doesn’t help.
The drain cover or body is corroded or cracked.
You want to upgrade to a new stainless-steel or linear drain.
You suspect leaks around the drain gasket or pipe connection.
| Tool / Material | Use |
|---|---|
| Screwdriver (flathead and Phillips) | Remove screws or pry off cover |
| Adjustable pliers or channel-lock wrench | Unscrew or grip the drain body |
| Drain removal tool (optional) | For tightening/loosening screw-in drains |
| Utility knife | Cut caulk or sealant around drain |
| Hair dryer or heat gun (optional) | Loosen old plumber’s putty or caulk |
| Gloves | Protect hands from sharp edges |
| Vinegar or cleaning spray | Clean residue after removal |
| Rag or paper towels | Wipe up debris and water |
Before removing it, identify what type of drain you have — the method depends on this.
| Drain Type | How to Recognize It | Removal Method |
|---|---|---|
| Screw-in drain | Visible crossbar or screw slots inside | Unscrew counterclockwise with pliers or drain tool |
| Snap-in drain | No screws; cover clips into base | Pry up gently with screwdriver |
| Caulked or glued drain | Sealed edge with silicone or putty | Cut seal, then twist or pry up carefully |
| Compression drain (PVC) | Found in modern fiberglass bases | Loosen locking nut inside drain using pliers |
Dry the shower floor.
Cover nearby surfaces to avoid scratching.
Put on gloves for grip and protection.
If your cover has screws, use a Phillips screwdriver to remove them.
If it’s a snap-in cover, insert a flathead screwdriver under the edge and gently pry upward.
Set the cover aside and clean off any visible debris.
If you see silicone or caulk sealing the outer rim of the drain:
Use a utility knife to carefully cut around the edge.
For hardened putty, warm it with a hair dryer or heat gun on low heat for 1–2 minutes — this softens it for easier removal.
If your drain has a visible crossbar or notches inside:
Insert pliers or a drain removal tool into the cross slots.
Turn counterclockwise to loosen.
Once it starts turning, continue by hand until fully removed.
Wipe away any remaining plumber’s putty or sealant.
Tip: If it’s corroded and stuck, pour white vinegar or a penetrating lubricant around the threads and wait 10 minutes before retrying.
Slide a flathead screwdriver under one edge of the drain.
Gently pry upward to release one side of the snap ring.
Work around the perimeter until the entire piece pops out.
Clean the drain opening and inspect for cracks or residue.
Avoid using metal force if the shower base is acrylic or fiberglass — it can scratch or chip the surface.
For modern PVC compression-style drains:
Use channel-lock pliers or a drain wrench to grip the inner nut.
Turn counterclockwise to loosen and remove it.
Pull the drain body out gently.
For older caulked or glued metal drains:
Cut around the flange with a utility knife.
Twist back and forth with pliers until the seal breaks.
Clean any remaining plumber’s putty or adhesive before reinstalling a new drain.
Once the old drain is removed:
Use vinegar or mild detergent to clean the exposed pipe and surrounding floor.
Remove all old sealant, mineral buildup, or rust with a soft brush.
Let the area dry completely before installing a new drain.
This ensures the new fitting seals properly and prevents leaks.
Before reinstalling, check for:
Cracks in the shower pan or floor around the drain hole.
Loose or misaligned pipes.
Mold or water damage beneath the drain area.
Fix these issues before installing the replacement drain — they can lead to future leaks or structural damage.
If you’re replacing the old drain:
Apply a ring of plumber’s putty or silicone sealant under the flange.
Insert the new drain and hand-tighten clockwise.
Wipe off any excess sealant that squeezes out.
Reattach the cover or strainer once dry.
For stainless steel or brass drains used in Global MoonShower shower systems, always use neutral-cure silicone to avoid damaging the finish.
| Tip | Purpose |
|---|---|
| Use soft tools on acrylic bases | Prevents scratching |
| Avoid acid-based cleaners | Protects metal finishes |
| Clean monthly with vinegar | Prevents buildup |
| Apply silicone seal annually | Maintains watertight seal |
| Wear gloves when handling metal parts | Avoids cuts |
| Problem | Possible Cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Drain won’t turn | Corrosion or rust | Apply vinegar or penetrating oil, wait, and retry |
| Drain spins but won’t lift | Still sealed with caulk | Cut deeper with a knife to break seal |
| Drain opening damaged | Over-tightening or old age | Replace entire drain body |
| Persistent smell after removal | Clogged P-trap or bacteria | Clean trap and flush with vinegar and boiling water |
| Step | Action |
|---|---|
| 1 | Remove cover and cut old caulk |
| 2 | Loosen and unscrew (or pry) drain |
| 3 | Clean debris and sealant |
| 4 | Inspect pipe and shower base |
| 5 | Install new drain if needed |
Removing a shower drain requires patience and the right approach, but it’s a simple DIY task once you know the type of drain you have. With careful handling and proper cleaning, you can replace or service your drain without damaging the shower floor.
For premium bathroom systems like those from Global MoonShower, follow these same steps using non-abrasive tools and neutral cleaners to protect your fittings. A clean, properly sealed drain ensures your shower stays leak-free, odor-free, and efficient for years to come.
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